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"It's a warm bath of slow adjustment..."

February 16, 2012

The fashion elite are gathering to search for glamour in a series of tents. Big money investors are circling the heavily indebted Barneys New York. Ralph Lauren is printing money, almost completely unhindered by the shuttering of American Living. J.C. Penney is reinventing, again.

And the Juicy girls are back -- and still wacky.

There are some things that never seem to change. Everything else is in flux. It's not fast change like everyone says it is. It's a warm bath of slow adjustment -- at least to our stimulus-crazed brains. It's change that takes just enough time to grab hold that you can trick yourself, if you really want to, in believing that nothing's really changing at all.

Or as Kit Yarrow, consumer psychologist at Golden Gate University, says, some people are coping with the shifting landscape by zeroing in on one aspect of their business. "To avoid the anxiety of the overwhelming amount of change going on they sort of focus their efforts into one area," she said. "They say to themselves, 'We have to find a way to make our online presence more usable.' People get all excited about one area where there are millions of different ways the retail landscape is changing."

The Internet is a good example.

It arrived on the scene with lots of bluster and retailers were tripping over themselves to get online. For years they tried to figure out where e-commerce fit or how much emphasis it should get.

Then somewhere along the way the Web shifted from the new novelty and the next big thing to just another way to drive revenue. It became a half-hearted replacement for the catalogue. Now that it's taken off, retailers point to their quickly ballooning e-commerce businesses as a sign of success. For many, it's the only growth they can point to.

The industry got smoked by Amazon.com, which grew its business exponentially and with intense focus, logging $17.3 billion in U.S. electronics and general merchandise sales last year. Those sales could have gone to traditional retailers. The Web giant is now said to be looking to open its own stores, taking a page from Apple's successful retail playbook.

And all sorts of other changes are moving through.

Social media is becoming a force in commerce, not just a digital hangout. The economics of retail real estate are shifting. Credit Suisse warned in a recent analysis that the closure of anchor stores threatens weaker "C" and "D" malls with a retail version of colony collapse disorder, which decimated the honeybee population. Sears Holding Corp. is already closing up to 120 doors and others could follow suit, prompting other chains to pull out of sunset malls.

The consumer is still discombobulated by the horrible housing market, high unemployment, the presidential election, the bad headlines out of Europe. They don't know where to turn.

This has all been going on for so long now, it just seems normal. So normal, in fact, that retail stocks are hitting all-time highs, singling that investors see better times around the corner.

Even if better times are just around the corner, the retail landscape is still going to look much different. And it will continue to shift. There's just too much going on to believe in any kind of real retail solidity.

So the message is: Be sharp, the retail world will require it.
For more information, visit: http://www.wwd.com/fashion-blogs/the_more_things_stay_the_same-12-02


JCPenney--predicted to be one of the most interesting retailers in 2012

February 13, 2012

J.C. Penney just blew up its brand — in a good way — thanks to a new management team with some radical new ideas. J.C. Penney is about to be the most interesting retail story of the year.

 

Late last year, J.C. Penney began building a dream team with Ron Johnson — the man who launched Apple‘s retail stores — as its new CEO. Johnson cut his retail teeth at Target and from there he poached Michael Francis to serve as J.C. Penney’s new president. Francis is largely responsible for Target’s branding and marketing efforts.

 

And this week, Johnson took a sledgehammer to the J.C. Penney way of doing business. It’s the most exciting thing I’ve seen in retail since Apple opened stores, again with Johson at the the helm.

 

There’s a new logo, new spokesperson, new pricing stategy, an investment in Martha Stewart Omnimedia and another designer partnership with Nanette Lepore. All in two short months.

 

 

J.C. Penney — now being referred to as jcpenney — is implementing a new pricing strategy, slashing prices up to 40% with to keep them that way year round. Not EDLP, this fair pricing strategy is designed to keep prices low on the basics shoppers look for frequently and introduce new merchandise on a routine schedule.

 

“We want customers to shop on their terms, not ours,” said Johnson. “By setting our store monthly and maintaining our best prices for an entire month, we feel confident that customers will love shopping when it is convenient for them, rather than when it is expedient for us.”

 

It’s a shocking move for any retailer, let alone a department store where hi-low pricing and promotions have long been the norm.

 

There will also be an entirely new layout, with brands merchandised in shops within the store rather than endless racks and runs of shelves. There aren’t many new ways to display merchandise and any effort to re-invent the in-store experience will be welcome with shoppers and provide a reason to buy in stores, rather than looking for bargains online.

 

“The department store is the number one opportunity in retail today. We are going to rethink every aspect of our business, boldly pursue change, and create long-term shareholder value, as we become America’s favorite store,” Johnson said. “Every initiative we pursue will be guided by our core value to treat customers as we would like to be treated – fair and square.”

 

The new logo is meant to evoke the American Flag, a move likely to resonate with today’s shoppers and set it apart from the rest of the retail pack.

 

Most retailers make tentative steps toward change. They take a year to develop a new store format, reconfigure a layout or commission a logo. Then they test it, refine it and test it again. It can take years to roll out changes to a large store base and often before that happens, the plan changes again.

But Johnson is anything but typical. Changes begin on Feb. 1 and  in August jcpenney will begin updating all stores with new merchandise and presentations, adding two to three shops each month through 2015 in what management is calling a complete transformation.

 

It’s refreshing, daring and probably exactly what the retailer needs. It’s probably what a lot of retailers need but few have the leadership and support to do it.

 

For more information, visit: http://www.forbes.com/sites/lauraheller/2012/01/26/why-jcpenney-will-be-the-most-interesting-retailer-of-2012/

 


JCPenney--predicted to be one of the most interesting retailers in 2012

February 13, 2012

J.C. Penney just blew up its brand — in a good way — thanks to a new management team with some radical new ideas. J.C. Penney is about to be the most interesting retail story of the year.

Late last year, J.C. Penney began building a dream team with Ron Johnson — the man who launched Apple‘s retail stores — as its new CEO. Johnson cut his retail teeth at Target and from there he poached Michael Francis to serve as J.C. Penney’s new president. Francis is largely responsible for Target’s branding and marketing efforts.

And this week, Johnson took a sledgehammer to the J.C. Penney way of doing business. It’s the most exciting thing I’ve seen in retail since Apple opened stores, again with Johson at the the helm.

 There’s a new logo, new spokesperson, new pricing stategy, an investment in Martha Stewart Omnimedia and another designer partnership with Nanette Lepore. All in two short months.

 

J.C. Penney — now being referred to as jcpenney — is implementing a new pricing strategy, slashing prices up to 40% with to keep them that way year round. Not EDLP, this fair pricing strategy is designed to keep prices low on the basics shoppers look for frequently and introduce new merchandise on a routine schedule.

“We want customers to shop on their terms, not ours,” said Johnson. “By setting our store monthly and maintaining our best prices for an entire month, we feel confident that customers will love shopping when it is convenient for them, rather than when it is expedient for us.”

It’s a shocking move for any retailer, let alone a department store where hi-low pricing and promotions have long been the norm.

There will also be an entirely new layout, with brands merchandised in shops within the store rather than endless racks and runs of shelves. There aren’t many new ways to display merchandise and any effort to re-invent the in-store experience will be welcome with shoppers and provide a reason to buy in stores, rather than looking for bargains online.

“The department store is the number one opportunity in retail today. We are going to rethink every aspect of our business, boldly pursue change, and create long-term shareholder value, as we become America’s favorite store,” Johnson said. “Every initiative we pursue will be guided by our core value to treat customers as we would like to be treated – fair and square.”

The new logo is meant to evoke the American Flag, a move likely to resonate with today’s shoppers and set it apart from the rest of the retail pack.

Most retailers make tentative steps toward change. They take a year to develop a new store format, reconfigure a layout or commission a logo. Then they test it, refine it and test it again. It can take years to roll out changes to a large store base and often before that happens, the plan changes again.

But Johnson is anything but typical. Changes begin on Feb. 1 and  in August jcpenney will begin updating all stores with new merchandise and presentations, adding two to three shops each month through 2015 in what management is calling a complete transformation.

It’s refreshing, daring and probably exactly what the retailer needs. It’s probably what a lot of retailers need but few have the leadership and support to do it.

 

For more information, visit: http://www.forbes.com/sites/lauraheller/2012/01/26/why-jcpenney-will-be-the-most-interesting-retailer-of-2012/


Post-holiday promotional push begins

December 21, 2010

With only a few days to go until Christmas retailers are already positioning themselves for post holiday success by touting promotions to capitalize on gift card redemptions. Target and JCPenney this week announced special incentives that begin the day after Christmas when both plan to open at 7 a.m.

Target said it planned to offer free shipping on certain online purchases and would extend store hours until 11 p.m., while JCPenney said is employing a similar strategy, featuring more than 100 doorbusters in a 48-page sales circular. Those who can’t wait until the day after Christmas can visit jcpenney.com to begin shopping the post holiday specials on the retailer’s website where free shipping will be offered on various items.

“Target makes shopping fun, fast and festive for our guests throughout the holiday season,” said Target merchandising VP Nik Nayar. “Most holiday gift cards are redeemed in our electronics department so we are gearing up for great deals on some of our guests’ favorite products such as video games, TVs and cameras.”

According to JCPenney, the day after Christmas is quickly becoming the retailer’s second busiest sales day after Black Friday.

For further information, visit: http://www.retailingtoday.com/article/post-holiday-promotional-push-begins?ad=apparel-accessories


J.C. Penney Ends ‘Big Book’ Catalogues

October 21, 2010

J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s transition from “Big Book” catalogues to “look book” mailers is now complete.

The Plano, Tex.-based retailer ended its Big Book catalogue earlier this year. J.C. Penney will still be in the print media business, but the new books will become “specialty in-store” mailers showcasing select fashion looks or must-haves to encourage consumers to shop in-store or online. The traditional catalogue format featured everything in a particular category.

Speaking last month at the Telsey Advisory Group’s Consumer Conference, Myron E. “Mike” Ullman 3rd, chairman and chief executive officer of Penney’s, told attendees, “Our strength ended up being a limitation at some point. Our being in 77 different catalogues, [speaking] to a lot of narrow audiences — frankly, it tied up a lot of inventory and got us kind of supporting multiple businesses that probably weren’t necessary.”

Penney’s catalogue dates back to 1963 and grew to a $1 billion in 1979, according to Penney’s.

Walter Loeb, former retail analyst and head of the consulting firm that bears his name, said, “This is the end of an era. Penney’s was great with their catalogue and it is the last of the cataloguers getting out of the business. Given the economic environment, it is probably more profitable for them to use the Little Red Book format as a marketing tool.”

“We made approximately 25 catalogue mailings in 2010, which was less than we’ve had in previous years as we’ve been replacing our traditional ‘big book’ catalogues with more focused cross-channel marketing pieces sent to customers on a targeted basis,” a Penney’s spokeswoman told WWD. “We mailed seven Women’s Little Red Books in 2010 and we’ll increase to nine to 10 in 2011. We mailed five Men’s Matters of Style books in 2010 and we’ll increase to six to seven in 2011.”

Shoppers who relied on the catalogues for their purchases can either go to jcp.com or contact a Penney customer care center, which will input the order through the Web site.

One source familiar with the change said increasing printing and postage costs “would soon be a considerable drag” on the retailer’s business. In addition, the catalogue operation had its own inventory system that was not connected with inventory at the stores or at jcp.com. Another source said the move will allow the retailer to better manage inventory and allocation levels for its stores and Web site.

The spokeswoman noted that one new feature online is the ability to input a zip code to find out if an item is available in a nearby store.


Kohls Opens 21 Stores

October 1, 2010

One day after J.C. Penney Co. Inc. revealed plans to open new stores, Kohl’s Corp. said it unveiled 21 units in 15 states on Wednesday. Kohl’s said the new stores will add 3,000 jobs in Alabama, California, Florida, Illinois, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Minnesota, Missouri, Nevada, New Mexico, New York, Ohio and Pennsylvania. The move comes at a time when many retailers are curtailing growth or developing smaller store formats.

Kohl’s on Wednesday also opened a new customer and operations center in San Antonio for its charge card business and kohls.com, which saw a 38 percent jump in revenues last year. Kohl’s operates two existing customer service and operations centers in Corsicana, Tex., and Menomonee Falls, Wis., where the company is based.

So far this year, Kohl’s has opened 30 stores, bringing the total units to 1,089 in 49 states.

Both Penney’s and Kohl’s are remodeling stores with an emphasis on fashion. Kohl’s is targeting 85 stores for facelifts this year, a 66 percent increase from 2009.

The fourth-largest department store chain in the U.S., Kohl’s sells national and exclusive brands aimed squarely at middle income shoppers, including Levi’s, Nike, Adidas, Simply Vera Vera Wang, LC Lauren Conrad, Elle Contemporary Collection, Dana Buchman, Candie’s and apt. 9. The retailer in June moved to a larger design office at 1400 Broadway in Manhattan with 60,000 square feet compared with the 20,000 square feet of the former office. Kohl’s said the new office would help accelerate its strategy for private and exclusive brands.

In August, Kohl’s reported second-quarter earnings of 84 cents a share, compared with the year-ago period’s 75 cents, yet cut its full-year guidance to $3.57 to $3.70 a share. Penney’s returned to profitability from a year-ago loss, earning 6 cents a share in the second quarter, but reduced its full-year guidance to $1.40 to $1.50.

For further information, visit: http://www.wwd.com/retail-news?module=tn#/article/business-news/kohls-opens-21-new-stores-and-a-new-customer-service-and-operations-center-3310743?navSection=retail-news


JC Penney Sets Aggressive Store Opening Plan

October 1, 2010

J.C. Penney Co. Inc. on Tuesday said it will open three stores next year as part of its plan to generate $1 billion in sales growth through new retail expansion over the next five years. Penney’s long term plans call for opening 75 new stores by 2014.

The first three stores are slated for Dallas; Daly City, Calif., which borders San Francisco, and Glenarden, Md., about 10 miles east of Washington. Penney’s has existing stores in all three markets, which cater to middle-income shoppers.

While Wal-Mart Stores Inc. slowed construction of SuperCenters amid the weakening economy and Gap Inc. has said it’s not planning to open new stores in the near term, Penney’s believes the markets it’s identified are underserved by its stores, so it will intensify its presence. The Daly City and Glenarden stores will open in the spring and the Dallas unit will bow in the fall.

Penney’s has an aggressive store-renovation program. By October, more than 750 units will have been renovated during 2010, including 76 major renovations, which took place in California, Florida, Illinois, Maryland, New York and Texas. Penney’s is aggressively expanding Sephora beauty boutiques. The retailer said stores with 1,500-square-foot Sephora installations are performing 1.5 percent better those without them. Other store improvements include in-store shops for new brands such as MNG by Mango, Call It Spring by Aldo, and new fixturing for the rollout of Liz Claiborne across 30 categories. Findmore interactive in-store fixtures are also making their way through the store fleet. Consumers can purchase from jcp.com using the technology.

Penney’s is investing $160 million on the improvements out of its $500 million capital- expenditure budget for the year.

The retailer hopes to complete the major renovations of more than 375 stores by 2014.

For further information, visit: http://www.wwd.com/retail-news?module=tn#/article/retail-news/penney-s-sets-aggressive-store-opening-plan-3310480?navSection=retail-news


J.C. Penney Landing in Manhattan

July 20, 2009

Could the real miracle now be on Manhattan’s 33rd Street?

Plano-based J.C. Penney thinks so, as it’s gearing up for the July 31 official opening of its first Manhattan store, just a block from Macy’s towering flagship in Herald Square.

The new store is key to Penney’s campaign to boost sales by shedding its reputation for dowdiness. That effort in recent years has included adding exclusive affordable collections from designer Nicole Miller, home furnishings from home maven Chris Madden and trendy in-store Sephora cosmetics shops.

Penney expects the store to be its largest sales generator. It believes even New York fashionistas are looking for affordable options as the recession maintains its grip. But Wall Street is taking note of the changing Manhattan retail landscape and will watch who shops at Penney and whether they are defecting from rivals like Macy’s. That Herald Square fixture since 1902 was made world famous by the annual Thanksgiving Day parade and the Christmas movie “Miracle on 34th Street.”

“Penney’s has been around for a long time, but it hasn’t had the visibility of its competitors,” said Faith Hope Consolo, chairman of real estate firm Prudential Douglas Elliman’s retail leasing sales division.

Consolo said higher-priced Macy’s and even the neighborhood’s Victoria’s Secret store, have “reason to be concerned” because Penney is likely to draw a full cross-section of the 250,000 shoppers who store officials say visit the area daily.

Penney, which usually sticks to staid radio and print ads to promote store openings, seems to be having fun ruffling feathers in the historic retail Mecca.

“We hear Herald Square needed a good department store,” one bus shelter proclaims. And another: “The real miracle is now on 33rd Street.”

But Macy’s spokesman Jim Sluzewski declined to comment, pointing out only that the 2.2 million-square-foot flagship is the world’s largest store and one of New York’s biggest tourist attractions. That compares with the much smaller Penney store, with about 150,000 square feet.

Sales at Plano, Texas-based Penney, which has 1,000 stores across the U.S., have stalled and profits dropped since the recession began in late 2007 and shoppers started cutting back on discretionary items like fashion. But competitors like Macy’s have suffered more, slashing its work force and closing stores. Penney’s has only slowed store expansion and cut inventory.

The average 7.8 percent sales decline since February at Penney stores open at least a year compares with 7 percent at Kohl’s Corp. and 9 percent at Macy’s.

Competitively priced trendy merchandise has been Penney’s strong suit in the recession, said Chief Marketing Officer Mike Boylson, while mid-priced basics and big-ticket items like furniture and jewelry have been weak.

Penney already operates stores in the Bronx, Staten Island and Queens, but Boylson believes the Manhattan store “is going to have a halo effect on the entire brand.”

When Penney’s opened a temporary store in Times Square in spring 2006, sales immediately rose in its borough locations and Jersey City and stayed higher until the recession began, Boylson said.

Given the recession – and how expensive it is to live in Manhattan – Boylson believes customers will appreciate Penney’s lower prices, like dresses that top at about $90.

For further information, visit: http://www.klewtv.com/news/business/51223737.html


Some Big Chains Reconstruct to Accomodate Consumers During This Recession

June 22, 2009

Shopping as we know it is on the brink of major change.

Hammered by the recession, some of the nation’s biggest retailers are seizing the moment to reinvent their business strategies. And the impact will mean both sweeping changes in the merchandise on their shelves and subtler alterations, like how many pantyhose to keep in stock.

High-end stores like Neiman Marcus, Saks and Coach will offer more midpriced merchandise. Many chains, including Wal-Mart, will carry less inventory and fewer brands. The likes of Sears and J. C. Penney will put self-service computers in stores so customers can browse collections or buy out-of-stock items. And retailers of all stripes will offer more exclusive merchandise and more attentive customer service.

One of the biggest changes consumers are likely to see is greater personalization and regionalization of merchandise.

An initiative known as “My Macy’s” requires the retailer’s merchandisers and other planners to go into stores each week to learn from the sales staff — who keep logs at the cash registers — what shoppers are requesting, snapping up or complaining about.

For instance, when strapless and bare-shouldered dresses were selling well everywhere except Salt Lake City and Pittsburgh, Macy’s employees in those stores knew the problem was that their customers wanted more modest dresses. So they passed that information on to the merchandisers. Out went the strapless dresses; in came dresses with cap sleeves. And sales went from lackluster to robust.

Under the new system it will not be unusual for a local Macy’s to stock the merchandise customers request, be it wide-width shoes or Sean John suits, and for those offerings to be different from the ones in a Macy’s store 100 miles away.

“I think what Macy’s is embarking on is perhaps the largest transformation in our company in a couple of decades,” said Terry J. Lundgren, president and chief executive.

The Macy’s change is just one example of a wide range of initiatives retailers are pursuing as they struggle to cope with an economy where sales are lower than they were just a few years ago.

At high-end stores, the era of ever-escalating prices on luxury goods appears to be over. In the future, consumers will still be able to buy chic brand names, but at a wider range of prices.

“Our customer loves our brands,” said Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and chief executive of Saks. “They don’t want to trade down to lower brands. But they want more of a range in price within the brands that they love.”

And that is what retailers intend to give them. Burton M. Tansky, president and chief executive of Neiman Marcus Group, told investors on a conference call last week that “we’re working with the designers to try and ease a portion of their collections into a new price range.”

Prices will also be lower at some “affordable luxury” chains, like Coach, which is increasing the proportion of handbags it sells for less than $300. About 50 percent of the company’s handbags will cost $200 to $300, in contrast to about 30 percent of handbags last year.

Another change is that consumers will have fewer brands from which to choose. Wal-Mart, Target, Home Depot, and PetSmart are just a few of the chains winnowing their brands. As Home Depot’s executive vice president for merchandising, Craig Menear, put it: consumers are “time-starved” and “looking for simplification in the entire shopping experience.”

That may delight minimalists, because it will be easier to find items on the shelves. But it also limits choice.

Another potential drawback for consumers is that stores may run out of stock more quickly than in the past because, as Mr. Lundgren of Macy’s explained, “retailers learned that you can’t get out of the merchandise that you ordered months before.”

“Instead,” he said, “you’re more likely to see retailers ordering fewer of each individual size and taking that risk that they’ll sell out and not capture every sale, rather than the risk of having too much inventory left over to mark down.”

Another trend is on the horizon: seasonal transitions for apparel will probably have shorter lead times. With strapped consumers buying only what they need when they need it, it has occurred to retailers that selling swimsuits to New Yorkers in early March is not necessarily a winning strategy. And so chains are beginning to work with suppliers to shorten the time between ordering and delivering merchandise.

Consumers will also see even more of the exclusive collaborations between retailers and prominent designers that are so prevalent today. That will help distinguish stores as well as avoid price wars because the same items will not be sold at multiple chains.

Yet another change will be the obliteration of any remaining divide between online and in-store shopping.

In Sears stores, “appliance research centers” with computers are enabling customers to compare local competitors’ prices. (If Sears does not offer the best price, it will match the lowest offer and hand over 10 percent of the difference.) Four J. C. Penney stores in Dallas are testing “FindMore” machines the size of arcade games, letting customers see every item J. C. Penney sells and find out if the item they want is in the store or online.

Shopping by cellphone will also become widespread.

“Everything we are developing is with a mind-set that it’s going to be running on a handset,” said J. C. Penney’s chief information officer, Thomas M. Nealon.

Despite all the new technology, consumers will be getting more attention from sales staff. During the last few years, retailers did not have to work hard to separate consumers from their dollars.

But those days are over. More middle-market chains are striving for Nordstrom-quality service to win customers. Even Home Depot has adopted its “most extensive customer service training ever,” its chairman and chief executive, Frank Blake, told investors and retailing analysts last week.

Of course, luxury chains have always featured a high level of attentiveness. But the chains say that in this economy, customers have heightened expectations. Saks, for one, has invested tens of millions of dollars in the last year on software that provides its sales staff easy access to information about client purchases and preferences, so that a returning customer might be greeted by a sales representative who recalls the shopper’s suit size and penchant for Christian Louboutin heels.

Economists and analysts forecast that it will take up to 10 years to return to 2007 levels of consumer spending — which makes now a good time for retailers to re-imagine the future. Paul A. Laudicina, chairman and managing officer of A. T. Kearney, the management consulting firm, noted that major consumer innovations like Neoprene and Teflon came out of the Depression.

Mr. Lundgren pointed out that if consumers were still throwing money around, stores might not want to alter strategies that were still working.

But with today’s recession, he said, “now is the time to aggressively rock the boat.”

For further information, visit: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/20/business/20retail.html


Consumers Are Not The Only Ones Cutting Back

June 16, 2009

Consumers aren’t the only ones cutting back.

Retailers are reining in their spending — with most broadline players slashing millions from their budgets as they try to counter withering sales. Although some, such as Wal-Mart Stores Inc., continue to pump money into their businesses to grab market share, the majority are drastically slimming down within their business models.

And if consumer spending doesn’t bounce back, retailers will have to start making more drastic and ultimately transformational changes that could reshape the industry, said experts.

Sears Holdings Corp., Macy’s Inc., Dillard’s Inc., J.C. Penney Co., Saks Inc., Nordstrom Inc., and Target Corp. cut a collective $668 million in selling, general and administrative expenses in the first quarter, pushing their SG&A expense down 6.3 percent from a year earlier. That means fewer dollars supporting brands and driving foot traffic, the axing of information technology projects and cramped cross-country plane rides for executives who can’t afford to be seen in first or business class as they lay off workers.

“From travel to supplies to benefits to marketing to information technology, we’re leaving no stone unturned,” said Stephen I. Sadove, chairman and chief executive officer of Saks, which reduced first-quarter expenses by $44 million, more than it planned to cut for the whole year. “How we have always done it is irrelevant. We’re approaching every area of the business asking how should we do it going forward.”

Saks rival Neiman Marcus last week revealed plans to reduce expenses by $125 million a year. “Our team has done an excellent job of decreasing their spend,” said Burt Tansky, president and chief executive officer of Neiman Marcus. “We are undergoing a comprehensive process that we believe has been thoughtful and significant.”

About 60 percent of planned expense reductions already have been realized. Neiman’s cut $38 million from selling, general and administrative expenses in the most recent quarter versus its 2008 counterpart.

Sears, which has 3,900 doors under its namesake and Kmart brands and has been criticized in the last few years for not investing enough in its stores, is the industry’s most aggressive cost cutter. The firm surprised Wall Street with first-quarter earnings after it reduced advertising spending by $107 million and payroll and benefit expenses by $84 million.

Cuts are even being made in the off-price channel, despite the competitive advantage that comes from having a value orientation during the downturn. Earlier this year Stein Mart Inc. laid off 178 assistant managers, while the rest of its managerial staff took a 5 percent pay cut and store associates’ hours were cut by 17 percent. Like other retailers, the company stopped paying shareholders a dividend, eliminated its stock buyback plan and halted contributions to employees’ 401(k) retirement plans.

All of this feeds into a vicious economic cycle, where the slowdown in consumer spending prompts businesses to cut workers, increasing the ranks of the unemployed and further weakening spending. Department stores alone eliminated a total of 10,800 jobs in February, March and April, according to government statistics that adjust for seasonal variations in workforce. Last month, the department store channel actually added 4,500 positions, although specialty stores cut 3,300 jobs.

But to every cost-cutting trend, there are exceptions.

Wal-Mart and, to a lesser extent, Kohl’s Corp., actually spent more in the first quarter, investing in their businesses in hopes of grabbing market share while most of the competition is biding its time and many are slimming down their store portfolios.

Wal-Mart upped its operating, selling, general and administrative expenses by $386 million in the first quarter. That spending increase is almost exactly what Macy’s and Sears, the two biggest cost cutters, stripped away.

“This is still Wal-Mart’s game,” said Dean Hillier, consultant and a partner at A.T. Kearney. “They are definitely taking advantage of the circumstances. The market is certainly heading their way and it seems to be sticking somewhat. The others are in a tougher spot and therefore are having to do what they need to do to eke out their profitability.”

Retailers have tried to hide their newfound austerity from consumers by working on inventory controls and cutting corporate staff while attempting to maintain the shopping experience. But chains are now tiptoeing up to cost cuts and other changes that could change the character of the industry. Both Neiman’s and Saks, for instance, said their customers want to spend less while not switching to other brands, and the retailers are trying to accommodate them by urging brands to develop lower entry-level price points.

“If Saks were to go to a lower price-point item on the same brand, would that reduce the brand impact for Saks as a company?” wondered Hillier. “Retailers are pushed into a position now, quite frankly, where they have to take risks with their business. They’ve got to start placing strategic bets. This is a new reality that retailers are dealing with.”

The next cost-saving step for retailers would entail bigger, deeper cuts and strategic moves, such as the shuttering of whole divisions, he said. That’s already occurred for a number of specialty stores, and last month Abercrombie & Fitch Co. indicated it might join them, saying it was undertaking a strategic review of its fledgling Ruehl unit.

A survey by Credit Suisse showed cash capital spending at 80 retailers fell 14.4 percent last year, the first decline since 2002. Spending by specialty apparel retailers dropped 24.2 percent to $3.71 billion and is slated to fall another 34.8 percent this year. Mall anchors cut expenditures by 22.4 percent to $4.26 billion in 2008 and plan to slash another 37.4 percent this year.

Despite the decline in spending, apparel specialty stores are expected to increase their gross selling space by 1.9 percent this year to 784.2 million square feet, while mall anchors add 1.2 percent for 506 million square feet — even as analysts at Credit Suisse say both sectors already have too much selling space.

“Capacity is not coming out of the soft-lines space fast enough,” Credit Suisse said of the apparel specialty stores. “We believe many retailers in this group are now faced with structural issues, primarily that they have too many stores, and would expect a decrease in square footage in 2010 as retailers come to this realization.”

Chains wanting to save money need not look at just their own operations. They can also take new approaches with their suppliers.

The savings so far, as large as they’ve been, are just the tip of the iceberg, said David McTague, executive vice president of partnered brands at Liz Claiborne Inc.

“They haven’t even started yet; it should be in the billions of dollars,” McTague said at the company’s annual meeting.

Together, he said, retailers and vendors can move product more efficiently from factory to selling floor and better manage inventories.

The financial stress of the moment could help set new directions on both sides of the supply/retail divide.

“Hopefully it means that they’re open to a much more collaborative relationship,” McTague said. “It’s a zero-sum game. All of us are trying to move profit dollars. It’s forcing everyone to be a lot more creative.”

For now, though, major changes appear to be mostly in the future. The more immediate question is whether retailers are cutting wisely. And there’s plenty of room for error.

“Some retailers have cut too far because they’ve cut from the top down,” said Antony Karabus, ceo of Karabus Management, noting a 10 or 15 percent across-the-board cut will trim some areas too much and others not enough.

Spending varies across the industry, meaning each company will have to cut in its own way.

According to the Karabus SG&A Retail Benchmark study, which looked at spending across 68 chains for the fiscal year ended January 2008, merchandising expenses range from 0.8 percent to more than 3 percent of sales. Supply chain costs range anywhere from 1.2 percent to 3.5 percent of sales.

As retailers lay off workers, many are concentrating their regional field staffs; for instance, giving district managers more stores to oversee or eliminating a layer of management altogether, said Karabus.

For department stores the danger is an increasingly national stance when customers want local flavor and attention — which is what Macy’s Inc. is trying to prevent with its My Macy’s program.

“When you cut expenses as a department store, you’ve still got to make sure that you’re staying relevant to your local consumer,” Karabus said. “What you’re seeing with a number of chains is that they’re cutting significantly to become more national.”

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