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H&M Cutting Costs By Using Digital Bodies

December 28, 2011

IT wasn’t the first time the fashion industry was slammed for extreme Photoshopping. But an entirely fake body?

 

That was the collective clucking earlier this month when it was exposed by Aftonbladet, the Swedish newspaper, that H&M had superimposed the heads of real models onto computer-generated mannequins for an online swimwear campaign.

 

“In the future, even models’ faces won’t be considered perfect enough for online fast fashion, and we’ll buy all of our clothing from cyborgs,” said a writer for the style blog Jezebel. The Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation blasted the retailer for “creating unrealistic physical ideals.”

 

But the practice is unlikely to end. Putting aside the technological advances that make digitally altered photographs harder to detect, the boom in fashion e-commerce means that radical retouching is here to stay and will probably go further.

 

It can be cheaper to superimpose a model’s face on a virtual body than it is to photograph a model in multiple outfits, said Ashley Mears, an assistant sociology professor at Boston University and former model, whose book, “Pricing Beauty,” explores the harsh economic realities of modeling.

 

For working models, it represents an existential threat. Models are generally paid whenever their faces are used. But they’re also paid for their time, and using a virtual mannequin means money taken out of their already-skinny pockets. (The Bureau of Labor Statistics says the median wage for models in the United States was $13.18 an hour in 2008.)

 

“If H&M just shot her head smiling at different angles, they’d have to pay for hair and makeup, plus the time to prepare her, but would not have to pay for the time it would take her to change in and out of multiple outfits,” Dr. Mears said. “That can be costly indeed.”

 

In a way, the H&M models should be glad they were included at all. To keep costs low, many online retailers crop out models’ heads entirely to avoid multiple-use fees. That is why so many sites, including low-end Wal-Mart and high-end Net-a-Porter, display page after page of headless dresses and sweaters.

 

(In one creative work-around, Alexander Wang, for his new e-commerce site last spring, partnered with the artist Terence Koh to obscure models’ faces with halo-shaped fluorescent bulbs: visually striking, but still a bag over the models’ heads.)

 

If there is any good modeling news in the H&M situation, it’s that a pretty face remains a bankable asset. H&M might have gotten away with a virtual body, but it did not dare create a virtual face. Consumers would have been turned off.

 

Scientists call it the “uncanny valley” theory, which holds that people will tolerate only so much artificial human likeness before attraction turns into revulsion. Think lifelike sex dolls or Michael Jackson’s nose.

 

“There is a very striking uncanny effect for faces” but less for nonmoving bodies, said Nancy Etcoff, an assistant clinical professor at Harvard Medical School. “If they added a super-realistic but not-real face, they’d become uncanny, and therefore frightening, eerie and creepy.”

 

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/18/fashion/hm-puts-real-heads-on-digital-bodies.html?_r=1&ref=fashionandapparel


Staying Warm This Winter!

December 27, 2011

A new direction in staying warm: Inspired by a chair lift ride in the bitter cold, Toast Heated Clothes makes heated long underwear for people who work and play in the outdoors.


The patented new system of heated base layer integrates heat packs to keep your core warm. The tops have heat packs in the neck and lower back, and the pants have a heat pack just below the waistband.


Like large handwarmers, the heat packs are air activated and last 10 hours each. One or two is typically enough on mildly cold days; choose 3 or more for really cold weather. Once you try it, you’ll wear them all winter!


Designed by a former professional snowboarder, the Toast collection currently includes heated tops and bottoms for men and women. “They were inspired by snowboarding, but you can wear them walking the dog or shoveling snow” says designer Julia Aiken. "


“We have customers who wear them running, working outside and watching football. They’re also great for lounging on the couch in cold weather.”


All Toast styles are are made in North America using Polartec fabrics. Famous for inventing polar fleece, Polartec fabrics are the gold standard in warmth and wicking performance. "We deliberately source fabrics that are made in the USA" says Aiken.

 

 

Toast Heated Clothes

 

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/apparel-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=106419


American Eagle Outfitters to Expand in Jordan, Morocco, & Egypt

December 27, 2011

American Eagle Outfitters Inc. announced the opening of stores in three new international markets—Morocco, Jordan and Egypt. The company also opened its third store in Saudi Arabia, and has plans for a second store in Lebanon in early 2012.

The leading lifestyle brand, with a fleet of more than 1,000 stores worldwide, currently operates in Egypt, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, and the UAE through its franchise partner, M.H. Alshaya, one of the most experienced retailers in the world.


American Eagle Outfitters opened in Jordan on November 30 in Taj Mall. Morocco’s store opened in Casablanca at Morocco Mall on December 1. The Egypt store is located in Cairo’s City Stars Mall, and opened on December 10.


The partnership with Alshaya, signed in May 2009, was AEO’s first foray into bricks-and-mortar stores outside of North America. Since then, AEO has opened stores in Russia, China and Hong Kong, and signed franchise agreements for stores in Japan and Israel as well, working with various franchise partners.


“American Eagle Outfitters’ ongoing international expansion is evidence of the success and positive customer response, as well as the expertise of our valued partner, M.H. Alshaya,” said Simon Nankervis, vice president of global business development, American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. "


“We are continuously delighted by consumers’ excitement and passion for the American Eagle Outfitters brand as we pursue our international expansion strategy around the globe. We look forward to announcing new stores and additional countries in the coming months.”


Even before American Eagle Outfitters began opening stores abroad, customers around the world were fans of the brand. The company’s e-commerce site shipped internationally beginning in 2004, and today ships to 77 countries, with Italy being the latest to join.


All American Eagle Outfitters international stores offer a similar product assortment as those in the U.S., which is well known for being high-quality, on-trend fashion at affordable prices. Most stores also feature the company’s Aerie brand, a confident, sexy intimates and apparel line for young women in their twenties.


American Eagle Outfitters Inc., through its subsidiaries, (AEO, Inc.) offers high-quality, on-trend clothing, accessories and personal care products at affordable prices.

 

 

American Eagle Outfitters Inc
 
 

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/apparel-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=106443


Sears Reduce Expenses By Closing Stores

December 27, 2011

Sears Holdings Corporation is providing an update on its quarter-to-date performance and planned actions to improve and accelerate the transformation of its business.


Kmart's quarter-to-date comparable store sales decline reflects decreases in the consumer electronics and apparel categories and lower layaway sales. Sears Domestic's quarter-to-date sales decline was primarily driven by the consumer electronics and home appliance categories, with more than half of the decline in Sears Domestic occurring in consumer electronics. Sears apparel sales were flat and Lands' End in Sears stores was up mid-single digits.


The combination of lower sales and continued margin pressure coupled with expense increases has led to a decline in our Adjusted EBITDA. Accordingly, we expect that our fourth quarter consolidated Adjusted EBITDA will be less than half of last year's amount. For reference, last year we generated $933 million of Adjusted EBITDA in the fourth quarter ($795 million domestically and $138 million in Canada).


Due to our performance in 2011 we expect that we will record in the fourth quarter a non-cash charge related to a valuation allowance on certain deferred tax assets of $1.6 to $1.8 billion. Although a valuation adjustment is recognized on these deferred tax assets, no economic loss has occurred as the underlying net operating loss carryforwards and other tax benefits remain available to reduce future taxes to the extent income is generated.


Further, we may recognize in the fourth quarter an impairment charge on some goodwill balances for as much as $0.6 billion. These charges would be non-cash and combined are estimated to be between $1.6 and $2.4 billion.


"Given our performance and the difficult economic environment, especially for big-ticket items, we intend to implement a series of actions to reduce on-going expenses, adjust our asset base, and accelerate the transformation of our business model. "


"These actions will better enable us to focus our investments on serving our customers and members through integrated retail – at the store, online and in the home," said Chief Executive Officer Lou D'Ambrosio. Specific actions which we plan to take include:


• Close 100 to 120 Kmart and Sears Full-line stores. We expect these store closures to generate $140 to $170 million of cash as the net inventory in these stores is sold and we expect to generate additional cash proceeds from the sale or sublease of the related real estate. Further, we intend to optimize the space allocation based on category performance in certain stores. Final determination of the stores to be closed has not yet been made.

 

• Excluding the effect of store closures, we currently expect to reduce 2012 peak domestic inventory by $300 million from the 2011 level of $10.2 billion at the end of the third quarter as a result of cost decreases in apparel, tighter buys and a lower inventory position at the beginning of the fiscal year.

• Focus on improving gross profit dollars through better inventory management and more targeted pricing and promotion.

• Reduce our fixed costs by $100 to $200 million.


In addition to the specific store closures listed above, we will carefully evaluate store performance going forward and act opportunistically to recognize value from poor performing stores as circumstances allow.


While our past practice has been to keep marginally performing stores open while we worked to improve their performance, we no longer believe that to be the appropriate action in this environment.


We intend to accentuate our focus and resources to our better performing stores with the goal of converting their customer experience into a world-class integrated retail experience.


We currently expect the store closure and inventory reduction actions to reduce peak inventory in 2012 by $500 to $580 million and reduce our peak borrowing need by $300 to $350 million in 2012 from levels that may have resulted in 2012 without such actions.

 

At December 23rd, we had $483 million of borrowings outstanding on our domestic revolving credit facility leaving us with over $2.9 billion of availability on our revolving credit facilities ($2.1 billion on our domestic facility and $0.8 billion on our Canadian facility). There were no borrowings outstanding last year at this time.

 

During the fourth quarter through December 23, 2011, we have not repurchased any of our common shares under our share repurchase program. As of December 23, 2011, we had remaining authorization to repurchase $524 million of common shares under the previously approved programs.

 


Fourth Quarter Earnings Release
The company currently plans to release financial results for its fiscal 2011 fourth quarter and full year on or about February 23, 2012, before the market opens.

 
Sears Holdings Corporation

 

http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/apparel-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=106620


The Release of Air Jordans: Several People in Jail and Several Others Wounded.

December 27, 2011

Fights, vandalism and arrests marked the release of Nike’s new Air Jordan basketball shoes as a shopping rush on stores across the United States led to unrest that nearly turned into rioting.

 

The outbursts of chaos stretched from Washington state to Georgia as shoppers — often waiting for hours in lines — converged on stores Friday in pursuit of the shoes, a retro model of one of the most popular Air Jordans ever made.

 

In suburban Seattle, police used pepper spray on about 20 customers who started fighting at the Westfield Southcenter mall. The crowd started gathering at four stores in the mall around midnight and had grown to more than 1,000 people by 4 a.m., when the stores opened, Tukwila Officer Mike Murphy said. He said it started as fighting and pushing among people in line and escalated over the next hour.

 

Murphy said no injuries were reported, although some people suffered cuts or scrapes from fights. Shoppers also broke two doors, and 18-year-old man was arrested for assault after authorities say he punched an officer. “He did not get his shoes; he went to jail,” Murphy said.

 

The mayhem was reminiscent of the violence that broke out 20 years ago in many cities as the shoes, endorsed by former Chicago Bulls star Michael Jordan, became popular targets for thieves. It also had a decidedly Black Friday feel as huge crowds of shoppers overwhelmed stores for a must-have item.

 

In some areas, lines began forming several hours before businesses opened for the $180 shoes that were selling in a limited release.

 

As the crowds kept growing through the night, they became more unruly and ended in vandalism, violence and arrests.

 

A man was stabbed when a brawl broke out between several people waiting in line at a Jersey City, New Jersey mall to buy the new shoes, authorities said. The 20-year-old man was expected to recover from his injuries.

 

In Richmond, Calif., police say crowds waiting to buy the Air Jordan 11 Retro Concords at the Hilltop Mall were turned away after a gunshot rang out around 7 a.m.

 

No injuries were reported, but police said a 24-year-old suspect was taken into custody. The gun apparently went off inadvertently, the Contra Costa Times reported.

 

Seventeen-year-old Dylan Pulver in Great Neck, New York, said he’s been looking forward to the release of the shoes for several years, and he set out at 4:30 a.m. to get a pair. After the first store he tried was too crowded, he moved on to a second location and scored a pair.

 

“I probably could have used a half a size smaller, but I was just really happy to have the shoe,” he said.

 

The frenzy over Air Jordans has been dangerous in the past. Some people were mugged or even killed for early versions of the shoe, created by Nike Inc. in 1984.

 

The Air Jordan has since been a consistent hit with sneaker fans, spawning a subculture of collectors willing to wait hours to buy the latest pair. Some collectors save the shoes for special occasions or never take them out of the box.

 

The Associated Press

 

http://www.guelphmercury.com/news/world/article/644647--new-air-jordans-cause-shopping-frenzy